Christopha and others bothered by silly pop up ads could try this Popup XP 3.2.915 you can find it at this site http://www.click-now.net/downloads09.htm and other good stuff, and a vast amount...
Type: Posts; User: manoftalent
Christopha and others bothered by silly pop up ads could try this Popup XP 3.2.915 you can find it at this site http://www.click-now.net/downloads09.htm and other good stuff, and a vast amount...
nuffy, first things first ...pull out the plug and clean it, being careful not to close the gap in the plug or you wont get enough spark....most snippers by rule of thumb will run ok if the gap in...
get yourself a decent roller head suitable for "rough" surfaces .....it'll make your job much easier and quicker ...well worth the money too
rip out the bricksand sell them on ebay .....this will help offset the cost of concrete :;
always use a gap, even as small as 3mm , the boards will contract and Expand.....if there is no gap to help compensate , then they will lift up ..and or warp or both ...depending on the fixing
perhaps running a bead of silicon all along the edge on both edges will help hold it in place ...(partially glue it) when your settled just grab one end and peel it off ...
in one word ....yes .....but double check on the bearers ....make sure they are solid
ok..your new security door will go into the gap of c/d ....primerily the door hinges will screw into side "d"......that being said I would paint sides a,b,c,d in black only and leave the rest in...
600mm minimum lawful requirement
skirting placed first , then tiled up too ....for an added feature, quad between the skirting and tile ....can be small 12 mm or big 25mm , but it does make a heck of a difference as no dirt can hide...
glass pebbles of different colours ( I would show you my simple three tiered pond but its bone dry and needs cleaniing at the time of writting this).....in the bottom with submersable lighting from...
Thats correct ....face of the post forms the boundary line.....
"Side and rear boundary fencing shall be a maximum of 1.8 metres.
The height of the fence is to be determined from the level of either the adjacent footpath (made or unmade), or that of the...
going directly into the ground ....redgum would be the go, tp is not suitable for directly into the ground ...unless you use post stirrups ...100x100 bears will warp .....they are after all only...
do the job properly, or do it time and time again.....pull em up and refit with s/s screws 50mm #10 ...if the T/P is weak underneath .....try 65mm for a better bite ....
or dismantle the whole...
thats a rediculously high price for a fence, ring the australian law institute and ask them where you stand legally if you build it yourself ( meeting local gov regs etc)...and pay someone to do it...
when builders see you all they see is $$$$$$$$$$...do your homework, it'll save you thousands ...get independant quotes from three different , sparkies, plumbers, carpenters , tilers etc ....plan out...
not sure without looking it up , but you want something with a steady flow ...to harsh a fall may overfill the gutterings capability to drain away, you have to consider the house roof sqr meterage as...
this is seriously a big job, and the only way to do it right, as from what is shown in the pics ....age has set in and bandaids simply wont continue to work in a safe manner ...we are talking about a...
kiln dried is dry to the touch and wont warp as quickly hence the way its stored in the pic, just tied with string ....air dried would probably come shrink wrapped to keep it moist and would feel...
it may not be the best way without ripping up more floor boards to find the crossmembers ....but measure up the distance of the two crossmembers plus 50mm for safety ...and cut a new joist to that...
Have a look at this post it may help you plan yours, I would use 200 x 50 t/p bearers, and 90 x45 t/p joists with centres @450mm, 600mm post stirrups concreted in ...size of post 100 x 100 rough sawn...
for what its worth, I just googled this up http://www.buyashed.com.au/3mx6m-workshop-shed-colorbond-p-8.html
bunnings has a smallish variety of plastic type moldings that are ideal for covering up corners ..try them
depending on your soil, you could dig 600mm if its a hard packed type or at least 900mm if its very soft and concrete them in ....100 x 100 mm posts and the sleepers coach bolted with 8" bolts ...one...
Combo, you can get it from here too mate..
https://secure.winshop.com.au/timberqueensland/shop/default.asp
Prowby, check this out it may help you decide on materials ..
http://www.bowens.com.au/images/SpanTable2.pdf
dig a small trench and lay aggi pipe to carry any excess water away if you think it may cause a problem later ...better to put this in now than rip it all up later for repairs
the trouble with a "no nail decking system" is it is untrialed and relatively new on the aussie market ....I would prefer to "let it develop" a while longer before commiting to it ..I dont have that...
Roddy, go buy a piece of timber the same type if you dont have one and try it yourself, this site will help I imagine http://www.vintagedoors.com/stain.html
I would assume your going to be there for some time, and cabling as it is these days, sometimes needs replacing ..saying that ....if it were me and the opportunity to place the infrastructure before...
I agree with what Skew said, better to get them cleaned now ....
acrylic will not stick to an oil base .....oil base will stick to an acrylic base ..but not the other way round .....now if you want a sturdy trailer box and still want to use ply ....I would...
where the belt has been joined make sure it rotates in the designed way...another words, in the direction of the arrow, which most belts have stamped on the inside ....sometimes a weak belt will...
mate. dont bolt directly onto the facia ......fix the joist hangers under it and into the wall ...if the bearer looks like its going to hit the bottom of the facia ( depending on what size joist...
Iwould let them do their stuff , it sounds like they know what they are doing ( they would putty the joins and sand)..is an old trade trick and it usually works well...
imagine if you took you car...
your best bet is to go for something like this http://www.resin-based-non-slip-flooring.com/landing-page.aspx?id=187&k=commercial%20floor
there must be a few resin based companies around to...
easy??:U not without dinner and chocolates:;
Its hard to give an accurate quote without seeing and measuring up, and also an idea of what materials are going to be used ....while everyone loves a merbu or jarra deck you also have to think...
I charged them $700 for my time .....and I am cheap compared to others so add that to above quote ...